2024/05/30 18:27
現在ではデザインのひとつとしても再注目されており、国内外問わず需要が高まっています。
セルヴィッチデニムとは、旧式のシャトル織機で織ったデニムで、両端にほつれ止めが施されたデニム生地です。
ヴィンテージのリーバイスの「赤耳」が有名なものだと思いますが、当時はデザインとしてではなく、機場がLevi'sの生地と判別できるように付けた目印的な役割として施されていたものでした。
ブランドの判別用として機場が付けていたものなので、線が無く白のほつれ止めのみのものや、青耳のようなものも存在します。
ジーンズがワークウェアからカジュアルウェアとしての需要が高まることにより、生地幅80cmほどのデニムしか織れず、織るスピードの遅い旧式シャトル織機から、生地幅150cmほどの広幅で、かつ旧型織機の数倍のスピードで生地を織れる量産型の新型織機でのデニム生地生産が主要となってきました。
旧式シャトル織機は職人が目を配りその都度設定を微調整しながら織っていくのに対して、新型織機は自動化でデニムを織ることが可能です。
その流れの中で旧式織機の生産自体がなくなり、現存する旧式織機も日本国内に数えるほどしか存在しない状況となりました。
部品もないため、メンテナンスする際は部品も職人が自身で作り、織機の修理をしていくこととなります。
生産効率も悪く職人の技術も必要で、そのため生地のコストも上がってしまい、それでもなお注目され続ける理由はどこにあるのでしょうか？
生産効率や低コスト、生地の均一性に対しては最近のデニム生地よりもセルヴィッチデニムの方が劣るかもしれませんが、人の思いが込められた味のある不安定さは旧式シャトル織機で生産するセルヴィッチデニムならではのものです。
「アジ」や「風合い」といった昔ながらの日本の美意識が、なんでもそろってしまう現代に「今までにない新しいもの」として注目され続けているのかと思います。
「温故知新のものづくり」を信念に生産したデニム生地を通して、生地を購入していただいた方、その生地で作った製品を着用された方にまで当店の「アジ」や「風合い」を感じて頂けるようなデニムを提供し続けていきます。
Selvage denim is characterized by the “ears” that can be seen from the hem when jeans are rolled up.
Nowadays, it is also attracting renewed attention as a design element, and its demand is increasing both in Japan and abroad.
Selvage denim is a denim fabric woven on an old-style shuttle loom with frayed ends.
The “red ears” on vintage Levi's are probably the most famous, but at the time they were not designed as a design feature, but rather as a marker added by the loom to identify the fabric as Levi's. The selvage denim fabric was also used by the loom to identify the brand.
Since it was attached by the machine shops to identify the brand, there were also those with no line, only a white fraying stop, and those with blue ears.
As the demand for jeans increased from workwear to casual wear, denim fabric production shifted from old-type shuttle looms, which could only weave denim fabrics as wide as 80 cm and were slow, to new-type mass-production looms that could weave fabrics as wide as 150 cm and several times faster than old-type looms. The old-type shuttle loom is a craftsman's machine.
While old-type shuttle looms are woven by craftsmen who keep a close eye on the weaving and fine-tune the settings each time, new-type looms can weave denim automatically.
In this trend, the production of old-type looms itself has disappeared, and there are only a few old-type looms in existence in Japan.
Since there are no parts, craftsmen have to repair looms by making parts by themselves.
Production efficiency is low, craftsmen's skills are required, and the cost of the fabric has risen because of this.
Although selvedge denim may be inferior to recent denim fabrics in terms of production efficiency, low cost, and fabric uniformity, the tasteful instability of selvedge denim, which is produced on old-style shuttle looms, is a unique feature of selvedge denim.
I believe that the traditional Japanese sense of beauty, such as “Texture” continues to attract attention as “something new and unprecedented” in this age when we have everything we need.
We will continue to offer denim fabrics produced with the belief of “Onkochisin no Monozukuri (craftsmanship with a fresh perspective)" so that customers who purchase our fabrics and even those who wear our products made from those fabrics can feel our "
Nowadays, it is also attracting renewed attention as a design element, and its demand is increasing both in Japan and abroad.
Selvage denim is a denim fabric woven on an old-style shuttle loom with frayed ends.
The “red ears” on vintage Levi's are probably the most famous, but at the time they were not designed as a design feature, but rather as a marker added by the loom to identify the fabric as Levi's. The selvage denim fabric was also used by the loom to identify the brand.
Since it was attached by the machine shops to identify the brand, there were also those with no line, only a white fraying stop, and those with blue ears.
As the demand for jeans increased from workwear to casual wear, denim fabric production shifted from old-type shuttle looms, which could only weave denim fabrics as wide as 80 cm and were slow, to new-type mass-production looms that could weave fabrics as wide as 150 cm and several times faster than old-type looms. The old-type shuttle loom is a craftsman's machine.
While old-type shuttle looms are woven by craftsmen who keep a close eye on the weaving and fine-tune the settings each time, new-type looms can weave denim automatically.
In this trend, the production of old-type looms itself has disappeared, and there are only a few old-type looms in existence in Japan.
Since there are no parts, craftsmen have to repair looms by making parts by themselves.
Production efficiency is low, craftsmen's skills are required, and the cost of the fabric has risen because of this.
Although selvedge denim may be inferior to recent denim fabrics in terms of production efficiency, low cost, and fabric uniformity, the tasteful instability of selvedge denim, which is produced on old-style shuttle looms, is a unique feature of selvedge denim.
I believe that the traditional Japanese sense of beauty, such as “Texture” continues to attract attention as “something new and unprecedented” in this age when we have everything we need.
We will continue to offer denim fabrics produced with the belief of “Onkochisin no Monozukuri (craftsmanship with a fresh perspective)" so that customers who purchase our fabrics and even those who wear our products made from those fabrics can feel our "
