2024/10/03 20:07
過去のTOPICS『防縮加工と生機（きばた）のはなし』でもご紹介しました通り、デニム生地製品は洗濯を繰り返していくうちに縮みが発生してきます。
また、デニムは綾織の生地の為、綾目の方向に向かって捻じれも発生します。
ジーンズの足部分のみの構造の筒型の見本（筒見本）を作成し、その筒見本に洗い加工を施して、メーカーやブランドが製品となった際のシュミレーションを行うことがあります。
筒見本に実際に洗い加工をかけて、どれくらいの縮みや捻じれが発生したかをご紹介します。
検証に使用したデニムは、同規格の防縮加工 / 生機デニムの、
となります。
※同規格でも防縮加工のもののほうが目付が重たくなります。
今回は捻じれの角度の変化をわかりやすくするために、セルビッチを表側に返して筒見本を作成してみました。
-------------------------
As mentioned in the past TOPICS About sanforized and raw denim, denim fabric products shrink as they are repeatedly washed.
Also, since denim is a twill weave fabric, twisting occurs toward the direction of the twill grain.
Denim factory sometimes make a cylindrical sample of the structure of only the leg portion of jeans (cylindrical sample), and wash the cylindrical sample to simulate when the manufacturer or brand makes the product.
The following is an example of how much shrinkage and twisting occurred after the tube swatch was actually subjected to the wash process.
The denim used for verification is of the same standard Sanforized / Raw denim.
1940s heavy ounce selvedge denim 16oz sanforized
Also, since denim is a twill weave fabric, twisting occurs toward the direction of the twill grain.
Denim factory sometimes make a cylindrical sample of the structure of only the leg portion of jeans (cylindrical sample), and wash the cylindrical sample to simulate when the manufacturer or brand makes the product.
The following is an example of how much shrinkage and twisting occurred after the tube swatch was actually subjected to the wash process.
The denim used for verification is of the same standard Sanforized / Raw denim.
1940s heavy ounce selvedge denim 16oz sanforized
*The Sanforized denim has a higher weight than the raw denim even if they are of the same standard.
In order to make it easier to see the change in the angle of the twist, we have made a sample tube with the selvedge turned to the front side.
●筒見本洗い加工比較（防縮加工）/ Washing comparison(Sanforized)
●筒見本比較（生機）/ Washing comparison(Raw)
●まとめ / Summary
防縮加工、生機ともにワンウォッシュとストーンバイオウォッシュではそこまで縮みに差がないですが、ノンウォッシュのものと比べると、
防縮加工が縮率1.5～3.5％程、生機が縮率7.5～8.5％程となっております。
捻じれも防縮加工のもののほうが若干斜めになっているのに対して、生機のほうは高さ60cmでもかなり斜めになっていることが分かります。
デニム生地の製品は、どうしても色落ちや縮み、捻じれが発生してしまいます。
それにより製品を着用し、洗濯を続けていけば、着用当時の色やシルエットとは違った風合いとなってきます。
経年変化を加味した寸法設定を考えないといけないといったデメリットもありますが、それを考えて工程を考えていく楽しみや、製品を作った後の着用し続けることによるエイジングや個性を楽しむという点は、デニム製品ならではの唯一無二のメリットです。
当TOPICSをご参考にしていただき、ご自身がどのような製品を作りたいかによって防縮加工or生機の選定をしていただければと思います。
-------------------------
There is not that much difference in shrinkage between one-wash and stone bio-wash for both sanforized and raw fabrics, but compared to non-washed fabrics,
However, compared to the non-washed fabrics, the shrinkage rate of the sanforized is about 1.5 to 3%, and that of the raw fabrics is about 7.5 to 8.5%.
The twist is also slightly more oblique on the sanforized fabric, whereas the raw fabric is much more oblique even at a height of 60 cm.
Denim fabric products inevitably fade, shrink, and twist.
As a result, if the product is worn and washed continuously, the color and silhouette of the product will become different from the color and silhouette when it was first worn.
Although there are some disadvantages, such as the need to consider the size setting taking into account changes over time, the enjoyment of thinking about the process and enjoying the aging and individuality of the product as it continues to be worn after it is made are the unique advantages of denim products.
We hope that you will refer to our TOPICS and select the Sanforized or Raw to what kind of product you want to make.
However, compared to the non-washed fabrics, the shrinkage rate of the sanforized is about 1.5 to 3%, and that of the raw fabrics is about 7.5 to 8.5%.
The twist is also slightly more oblique on the sanforized fabric, whereas the raw fabric is much more oblique even at a height of 60 cm.
Denim fabric products inevitably fade, shrink, and twist.
As a result, if the product is worn and washed continuously, the color and silhouette of the product will become different from the color and silhouette when it was first worn.
Although there are some disadvantages, such as the need to consider the size setting taking into account changes over time, the enjoyment of thinking about the process and enjoying the aging and individuality of the product as it continues to be worn after it is made are the unique advantages of denim products.
We hope that you will refer to our TOPICS and select the Sanforized or Raw to what kind of product you want to make.
